I love this post! I am from a Sicilian family (from Augusta) but never heard of couscous until 1973, when I was a teen on an exchange program to Kairouan, Tunisia. The family who hosted me had a Bedouin woman who helped around the house. I went with my Tunisian family to their farm, where wheat was being harvested and dried. Then back to our house, where I helped to mix the wheat flour with water and rub it across a large wooden sieve where the couscous pieces fe onto a clean sheet. It was dried on the roof for a few days, then stored in huge clay jars. My "Maman" made the sauce with either mutton or fish, in a tomato broth with chickpeas, onions, hot pepper, various veggies. It was in a special pot, with the dry couscous sitting in a top portion (like a double boiler) with holes in the bottom of it. The stew cooked under neath it so that the steam cooked the pasta. All served together with extra sauce and a bowl of harissa. Fantanstic! I have been trying to imitate it for 50 years!
I love Tunisian couscous! The process is very similar in trapani, they traditionally use a terracotta pot with holes and make a dough seal. Steaming using the same broth was traditional too I think but I haven’t seen it much lately as I think people want to have more control of the fish broth. So I think a simple vegetable broth is more commonly used for the steaming part.
I find anything involving teasing the right amount of gluten out of wheat flour is better learned through the hand than the eye or brain -- pastry, bread, pasta, etc.
Oh I’m nostalgic and hungry now, remembering fish couscous in Sicily in 2001 right after 9/11. As I ate in Sicily, tears came because the tastes were like my Calabrian nonna’s cooking. Sous vide is a brilliant solution to overcooked swordfish or tuna.
I love this post! I am from a Sicilian family (from Augusta) but never heard of couscous until 1973, when I was a teen on an exchange program to Kairouan, Tunisia. The family who hosted me had a Bedouin woman who helped around the house. I went with my Tunisian family to their farm, where wheat was being harvested and dried. Then back to our house, where I helped to mix the wheat flour with water and rub it across a large wooden sieve where the couscous pieces fe onto a clean sheet. It was dried on the roof for a few days, then stored in huge clay jars. My "Maman" made the sauce with either mutton or fish, in a tomato broth with chickpeas, onions, hot pepper, various veggies. It was in a special pot, with the dry couscous sitting in a top portion (like a double boiler) with holes in the bottom of it. The stew cooked under neath it so that the steam cooked the pasta. All served together with extra sauce and a bowl of harissa. Fantanstic! I have been trying to imitate it for 50 years!
Thanks for these wonderful history lessons!
I love Tunisian couscous! The process is very similar in trapani, they traditionally use a terracotta pot with holes and make a dough seal. Steaming using the same broth was traditional too I think but I haven’t seen it much lately as I think people want to have more control of the fish broth. So I think a simple vegetable broth is more commonly used for the steaming part.
I find anything involving teasing the right amount of gluten out of wheat flour is better learned through the hand than the eye or brain -- pastry, bread, pasta, etc.
I always learn so much when I read your posts. I am so grateful for the lovely storytelling, as well as hungry and inspired!
Oh I’m nostalgic and hungry now, remembering fish couscous in Sicily in 2001 right after 9/11. As I ate in Sicily, tears came because the tastes were like my Calabrian nonna’s cooking. Sous vide is a brilliant solution to overcooked swordfish or tuna.
Great post! Love the combo of the personal, historic, cultural and culinary!!